Our Liberty print curtains introduce a hit of pattern to plain bathrooms
You will need
- Telescopic curtain pole (try 1.8m Extendable Lightweight Net Curtain Rod, £14.99, Homebase
- Main fabric (we used 1960s Liberty print Tana Lawn, £24 a metre, Donna Flower)
- Patterned bias binding (we used Liberty print bias binding, £14.95 for eight metres, Clothkits)
- Matching thread
- Tacking thread
Step 1) Adjust and position the telescopic curtain pole in place inside your window recess at your preferred height. Measure the width of your window at its widest point and the drop from the top of the curtain pole to the sill.
Step 2) Cut one curtain from the main fabric to these measurements, adding a total of 19cm to the drop for the channel at the top and the bottom hem; and a total of 14cm to the width for side hems. Repeat to cut a second curtain.
Step 3) To hem the side edges, press under 7cm along each side edge then turn under the raw edge by 2cm. Pin then machine stitch in place, removing the pins as you go.
Step 4) To make the channel for the curtain pole, press under 12cm along the top of each curtain then turn under the raw edge by 2cm. Pin then machine stitch in place 1mm from the folded-under edge, removing the pins as you go.
Step 5) For each curtain, cut two 120cm lengths and two 80cm lengths of patterned bias binding in different designs or colours. Turn under the raw edges along each short, cut edge, machine or hand stitch and press. Fold the bindings in half along the width and press.
Step 6) Lay out one curtain face up, on a flat surface. Loop one of the longer lengths of binding over the top of the curtain so that the pressed fold sits on the top edge and the outside edges of the binding line up with the outside edge of the curtain. You should have an equal amount of binding falling at the back and at the front of the curtain. Repeat to position a shorter length of binding directly on top of the longer one.
Step 7) Pin then tack the two layers of binding in place around the channel opening. Remove the pins then hand stitch in place. Unpick the tacking. Repeat with another two lengths of binding along the remaining side edge of the curtain, and repeat again to attach the remaining bindings to the second curtain.
Step 8) Carefully remove the curtain pole from the bathroom window and thread the pole through the channels at the top of the two curtains. Reposition the pole in the window recess, checking that it is level and that it is sitting at the same height as it was when you measured up.
Step 9) Pin the bottom hem by turning under 7cm. Check that the hem looks straight and level with the sill and, again, take down the pole and remove the curtains. Turn under the raw hem edges by 2cm, re-pin and then machine stitch in place, removing the pins as you go.
Step 10) Thread the finished curtains back on to the pole and reposition the pole in the window recess.
Step 11) For the curtain tiebacks on each curtain, cut two 80cm lengths of bias binding in two different designs or colours. Turn under the raw edges along each short, cut edge, machine or hand stitch and press.
Step 12) Close the curtains on the curtain pole and check that the outside edges of the curtains are sitting flush with the window recess. Lift the leading edge of the left-hand curtain and bunch the curtain together in your hand so that the inner edge of the curtain sweeps away from the centre to the left but the outside edge remains as flush to the recess as possible. Hold the curtain in place by threading on a large rubber band in the place where you want the tiebacks to sit. Repeat with the right-hand curtain, this time sweeping the curtain from the centre to the right.
Step 13) Wrap two lengths of bias binding around the rubber band on each curtain, tying using bows or knots as you prefer to hold the curtains in place. Once you're happy that the bindings are secure, remove the rubber bands by either gently pulling them down to the curtains or snipping them off. Your bathroom is now transformed!